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I’ve never been a gum-chewer. But in the last year, the gum needed chewing, so I got down to business.<\/p>\n
That isn’t a metaphor.<\/p>\n
About a year ago, someone offered me some gum, and I was intrigued by the vessel it was offered from— not a metallic bubble pack, but a plastic jar with a very interesting lid.<\/p>\n
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The lid is a truncated hemisphere, but the flat cut of the top isn’t parallel to the base– instead it’s angled, creating an interesting shape. The flap at the top is a separate piece that can be (permanently, and destructively)<\/em> removed, and there’s a satisfying row of parallel indentations around the edge. As it tends to do, my brain took in the shape of this lid and filed it into the Terrain Scrap Archives, a filing system in my brainmeats where I track “stuff I’ve seen that could probably be used for terrain, someday, maybe”. I didn’t immediately know exactly what use the lids would have, but I knew in my core that there was a piece of terrain somewhere inside it.<\/p>\n Once the idea was registered in my brain, I would periodically re-examine it when I saw the same gum containers at the grocery store. Over time, I came to a few conclusions:<\/p>\n I let those gears turn at the back of my head for a while, and started keeping jars of gum in my car and at my desks to gradually grind through. By my quick calculations, I chewed 600 pieces of gum in service of this task. A high price, yes, but great terrain demands great sacrifice.<\/p>\n I didn’t know what exact end goal this would all be applied to until I dropped into my local game store one day last Fall and saw a new set of PlastCraft terrain they’d brought in:<\/p>\n PlastCraft does have some officially licensed Infinity terrain sets (of which I am a pretty big fan)<\/em>, but this one was marketed as generic sci-fi. My personal theory is that it was an attempt to capitalize on the new-ish Star Wars minis game, as the griminess, geometric designs, and general tech level seem to be in keeping with that universe.<\/p>\n I bought a half-dozen buildings from the set, but they obviously weren’t enough to fill a board on their own, so I knew I would need to create some additional pieces to fill out the board. I like to combine artificial and natural elements in my terrain sets, and the red dirt around the bottoms of the buildings seemed to suggest a desert or some dusty red rocks, so I figured that a set of big orangey rocks would make a good complement to the buildings.<\/p>\n I could have taken that idea and just made rocks, but there was another idea that had been bouncing around my mental filing system for years that I thought might make things more interesting:<\/p>\n At the start of the almost-unwatchable movie Star Trek: Insurrection, the Federation sets up an observation post to watch a planet’s native society. Their facility is embedded in the cliffs around the town, and hidden by a holographic facade. At one point, though, a character partially decloaks the facility, leading to some interesting shots of the observation post poking out of the otherwise unbroken stone of the cliff walls.<\/p>\n I always liked that visual, and it’s inspired a few terrain sketches over the years where I tried to embed machinery and buildings inside rock faces. None of them have come to fruition yet, but I decided that this project might be a good opportunity to deploy it on a small scale– not full usable buildings set in rock, but at least some bits of machinery embedded in the rock face to give it a bit of a sci-fi feel.<\/p>\n After a few weeks of brainstorming and sketching, I settled on a design that included some big mining fans, and decided that the time was right to finally deploy the gum lids I had been saving up. I had chewed my way through about a dozen jars over the course of a year, and came up with a design for a foamcore enclosure that would be capped at the top with a gum lid fan. A big part of selling a sci-fi future for me is repetition; manufacturing is only going to get more efficient as technology marches forward, so I like to design my terrain around the concept of “this seemed like a good design, so we made a thousand of them.” Driven by this principle, I wanted to repeat a near-identical fan design all around the board, but keep each terrain piece interesting and unique by varying the rocks each one is set into.<\/p>\n Duplicating a design has always meant a lot of tedious manual drudgery for me– maybe they’ll be able to effortlessly mass-produce things in the distant future, but in the boring present, I usually have to make paper templates, manually trace them onto various materials, and then manually cut everything out for assembly. This process tends to be long and mind-numbing, but a recent acquisition has removed at least some of the pain from this process.<\/p>\n As I’ve mentioned in a few articles by now, I acquired a Silhouette Cameo CNC cutter last year. I call it my “knife printer”– you give the computer a design full of shapes you want to cut out, the computer translates that design into cutting instructions, and the printer cuts those lines into a thin material you feed into it. I was extremely excited at the possibilities this created for mass-producing terrain elements, but this enthusiasm was severely tempered when I discovered that\u00a0it can’t cut through craft foam<\/strong>. It’s designed to cut through various types of paper, and the thin craft foam that I use for most of my terrain detailing is just a bit too thick for even the longest blade Silhouette makes<\/p>\n That disappointing discovery last year was enough to discourage me from using the Silhouette for any of my next terrain projects. But this new set demanded mass-production of a lot of identical piece, and I was willing to take another\u00a0 look at the Knife Printer to see if I could coerce it into being helpful.<\/p>\n Ultimately, the concession I made was to swap materials. Thick paper is pretty useless for most terrain applications– not thick enough to act as paneling, and not sturdy to build free-standing structures. However, since these fans would be encased inside the sturdy plastic gum lids and thusly protected from most impacts, I figured that I could get away with relatively flimsy construction on the fan blades.<\/p>\n Having settled on this plan, I made up a fan design in Adobe Illustrator, then exported the design to the Silhouette software and cut the components out of scrapbook paper.<\/p>\n There were three components for each fan– a circular backing piece, then the fan blades, then a front guard. The pieces were all sized to fit inside the gum lids. I mean… obviously. Kinda no point otherwise. \ud83d\ude1b<\/p>\n I cut a small notch in each fan blade near the central hub, which allowed me to bend each blade down a bit with the aid of a small pair of pliers.<\/p>\n Because the paper I was using had very little thickness on its own, I opted to create relief within the piece by putting spacers between the layers. First up, I put a tiny piece of foamcore behind the raised part of each blade to let the blades sit out from the backing.<\/p>\n I also put little blocks behind the guard piece to help them sit away from the blades.<\/p>\n I annoyingly didn’t get a photo of the completed fan assemblies at this point, but you can see them a few pictures down. :\/<\/p>\n At this point, I was ready to bring in the gum lids. The soft plastic of the flaps turned out to be extremely easy to cut with a knife.<\/p>\n The fan guards looked a bit plain, so I used the Silhouette to cut out some circular nubs to go over them. I cut these out of craft foam– which, as mentioned earlier, is too thick for the Silhouette to go all the way through, requiring me to retrace over every single cut to release the pieces. Which saves some<\/em> time over manually tracing templates and fully doing the cuts by hand, but not a lot. :\/<\/p>\n Once I was happy with the fan assemblies, I sprayed them black and glued each one inside a gum lid.<\/p>\n (Here you can finally see how the pieces look with the spacers in place– a big improvement over the flat paper layers).<\/em><\/p>\n Next up, I needed to build the enclosures to go around the fans. Starting from the basic shape in my sketch, I did a bunch of triangle math to figure out how long each of the various segments needed to be, and then used those numbers to build a template in Illustrator.<\/p>\n I printed the template out on cardstock paper and transferred it ten times to a sheet of black foamcore.<\/p>\n Each of the pieces was cut out with a utility knife; wedges were cut out to permit the various folds, in my usual manner<\/a>.<\/p>\n Everything was then glued together with a hot glue gun.<\/p>\n I like stacking things in rows. <3<\/p>\n My overall concept for the board was that it was a mine of some sort. I don’t personally know a lot about mines, but I’m vaguely aware that mines fill up with various horrible gases that need to be vented out; I figured that these fans I was creating were the outer layer of such a ventilation system. To emphasize their connection to the tunnels below, I wanted to have a visible tube connecting the fans to the ground.<\/p>\n The tubing I used is just some basic electrical conduit I picked up at the hardware store. It has an opening running down one side to let you snap it over whatever wires it’s protecting; I didn’t want this seam to be visible, so I kept it pointed toward the back (which would be embedded in the rock).<\/p>\n I cut these into short lengths, then hot glued them in place with popscicle sticks to hold them at the correct angle.<\/p>\n The enclosures and fans were being worked on simultaneously; this is around the point where both were nearing completion, and were looking pretty dang snazzy if you ask me. \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n Two things to note here: first off, I used more popscicle sticks and triangles of black scrapbook paper to fill in the gaps around the conduit. Second, the glue required to join all of this together was pretty heavy, leading to all of the enclosures being heavy enough in the back to fall over, so I added little stabilizer feet at the bottom to help them stand upright for the next stages of assembly.<\/p>\n With the individual components basically complete, it was time to start thinking about how this would all come together into finalized terrain pieces. My basic plan was to pose the fans together into various configurations, then use expanding spray foam insulation to create rocks around them. To support all of this, I used scraps of foamcore to build a really loose skeleton in the shape of whatever rocks I planned to squirt into existence for each one.<\/p>\n To keep the spray foam from making too much of a mess, I used more black scapbook paper as a backing sheet on each piece. This first piece was intended to have a flat edge to let it sit against the edge of the game board, so I folded the paper in half to create both a ground and wall barrier.<\/p>\n The skeleton was hot glued into place, and then I used a pencil to sketch out the vague outline of where I wanted the rock to sit.<\/p>\n As I was working through the early stages of this project, it occurred to me that the final pieces would be more interesting to play on if they were more than just big rocks; to help create more interesting play patterns, I also wanted to have short tunnels burrowing through most of the pieces.<\/p>\n To keep the tunnels sized and shaped in a consistent manner, I built them into the rock skeletons using empty Knorr bouillon containers, of which I have so, so many<\/em>. I don’t think I’ve used them for a terrain project since the six-hour sewers<\/a> in 2015, so they’ve just been building up on my scavenged materials shelf. <3<\/p>\n The H-shaped support you see in this shot is something I tossed together quickly to ensure that each tunnel is raised a specific height above the ground, which would let me build standardized stairs and ladders that would work all across the terrain set, without each piece needing its own custom-fit ladders.<\/p>\n The tubes were embedded within the skeletons of most of the terrain pieces. The containers are just barely tall enough for an S5 silhouette to pass through when a flat catwalk is placed on the bottom.<\/p>\n Random progress shot. These two tunnels are raised higher than the earlier ones; these one would have ladders, while the lower ones would have short staircases.<\/p>\n I kept building pieces until they seemed to fill enough space on the board, which gave me seven in total. The 12″ tiles on my kitchen floor are great for helping me visualize things like this. \ud83d\ude00<\/p>\n Alright, time for the gross part. There have historically been two terrain materials I dislike working with– two-part resin that’s often used for creating clear pools of water (because I can never get a complete seal, and it ALWAYS escapes and gets everywhere)<\/em>, and expanding spray foam. Spray foam is a construction material used to fill gaps and prevent unwanted air flow; it comes out of an aerosol can with a long, fat tube on the top. Two chemicals within the can are shot out at the same time; as soon as they mix, they react together, creating a bubbling foam that dries to the touch in about half an hour (and then solidifies in a few hours)<\/em>. It has lots of applications in terrain-making, most notably for creating rocks and other natural substances in whatever size and shape you like.<\/p>\n However, I kind of can’t stand the stuff, because every time I’ve used it in the past, I’ve accidentally gotten it on a table surface, my shoe, my shirt, my dog, or some other unwanted canvas. And once it’s on there, it does NOT want to come out, requiring a very fast application of acetone if you want any chance of dissolving it before it bonds permanently.<\/p>\n So, this time I took no chances– I applied it in the wide space of my kitchen, with a dropcloth underneath, while wearing fully disposable clothes and rubber gloves.<\/p>\n And of course, with all of those precautions in place, THIS time it completely behaved and didn’t get anywhere. \ud83d\ude1b<\/p>\n Foaming up all seven terrain pieces took about an hour. The two different colours are ostensibly two different grades of foam– white is “normal”, while yellow is for windows. I’m sure there’s supposed to be some difference between those, but in practice they seemed pretty close to identical other than the colour. *shrug*<\/em><\/p>\n Once the foam had set overnight, I tore the excess black paper from the underside of each piece.<\/p>\n That’s about it for the bulk rock construction. On the next page, we’ll start building the ladders and stairs, and learn some deeply frustrating things about the chemical properties of expanding foam. ~_~<\/p>\n <\/p>\n Alrighty, let’s create some workplace safety hazards!<\/p>\n The staircases I would be creating were a modification of the ones I came up with for my first Infinity terrain set<\/a>:<\/p>\n Back during that project, I had found that three steps were enough to cover a 1″ vertical transition, and came up with a neat stair layout where the balcony and bottom step both wrapped around a much smaller hexagonal middle step. Not only does this look cool, but it leaves enough room for a 25mm base to sit flat on each step, and even juuuust<\/em> enough room for a 40mm to rest without falling over.<\/p>\n I wanted the stairs for the Mars terrain (as I had started thinking of this new set)<\/em> to be much narrower, but the same basic shape was employed. As with everything else I do, the designs were drawn up in Adobe Illustrator, then printed on cardstock and transferred to foamcore.<\/p>\n Supports go under the stairs…<\/p>\n …then the steps go down on top. It’s hard to see, but a tiny L-shaped support connects the bottom and middle steps.<\/p>\n These were all measured in advance to cleanly go from ground level to a catwalk laid within the tunnel tubes.<\/p>\n On that note:<\/strong> I’ll post the PDF files for this project’s templates at the end, but it’s important to note that all of the vertical pieces were very specifically sized for this project’s dimensions. If you decide to adapt my ladders or stairs to your own projects, you’ll probably want to adjust the height of the vertical riser templates slightly so that everything links up correctly to whatever you’re matching them to.<\/p>\n Speaking of ladders… here are some ladders! I don’t have Illustrator files for these, because I drew the templates with a pencil and ruler while at my local store one Friday night.<\/p>\n BONUS:<\/strong> Heh, they look like dicks. \ud83d\ude1b<\/p>\n Something new I did with this project was to incorporate magnets to attach pieces together. This was quite simple to set up– under the top lip of the stairs and ladders, I peeled back the paper layer of the foamcore, and then cleared a space through the foamcore to fit two small stacked steel washers. The paper was then glued back into place.<\/p>\n I annoyingly didn’t get a shot of the magnets going in, but it’s exactly the same thing– open the paper in the catwalks, drop in a magnet, then glue shut. I used 3lb rare earth magnets purchased from a local surplus store, which adhere very strongly through the two layers of paper.<\/p>\n Up to this point, the catwalks running through the tunnels had just been lying loose, but eventually I needed to glue them down. The interior of the broth cans is lined with waxy foil that glue doesn’t stick to well, so I cut a small area of the foil away to let me glue things directly to the cardboard underneath.<\/p>\n Basic construction was nearing completion, so it was finally time to glue everything together. The gum lid fans had a pretty huge void inside them, so I glued in some foamcore blocks so that they laid approximately flush to the outer rim of the lid. This let me attach glue to the foamcore (which adheres beautifully)<\/em> instead of trying to stick to the thin edge of the lid.<\/p>\n A few boring assembly steps later, things were ready to paint. To start things off, I sprayed everything with black aerosol primer.<\/p>\n Next, I came in with a can of Rustoleum colonial red (ooh… maybe not a great reference in today’s political climate..?)<\/em>, which I thought was a really pretty colour. \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n Once that was done, I brought the pieces inside to work on the stone with my airbrush. Almost immediately, however, I noticed that paint was chipping pretty heavily anywhere the terrain pieces brushed solid objects, or each other.<\/p>\n Terrain chipping is an expected hazard, but this was unique and worrisome. Not only was it happening IMMEDIATELY after application, and under the barest hint of physical contact; but when it did chip, the paint was lifting ENTIRELY away, leaving no residue of any kind behind on the foam. This basically told me that the spray primer I had used had ZERO bond to the spray foam, which in turn meant that the chipping I was observing was only the start– unless drastic measures were taken, half the paint was likely to chip away inside of a month.<\/p>\n Just to be safe, I sprayed some thinned Mod Podge over everything, which I hoped would form an armored shell around the entire piece. It wouldn’t make the paint stick to the foam, but hopefully the shell would have enough structural integrity in and of itself to sort of hold the paint together into a form-fitting balloon.<\/p>\n I was scheduled to help run a tournament the next day, so I used the opportunity to set the terrain up for a stress test– I wanted to see how much wear and tear the set took from being packed into bins, unpacked, played on for three rounds, then packed up and unpacked again.<\/p>\n Maybe the podge would hold..?<\/p>\n HAHA NOPE<\/p>\n The chipping was certainly reduced<\/em>— in that it now took a direct knock to create a chip instead of a light brush against skin or fabric. However, this still resulted in dozens of small and medium chips across the set, so it was clear that podge alone wasn’t the solution I was after.<\/p>\n I showed the damaged pieces to various friends and local store owners, but none of them immediately knew how to solve it.<\/p>\n A brainstorming chat with one particular store owner yielded some suggestions I could at least test. The first was that I might simply not have put enough<\/em> podge over the pieces– podge dries into a very thin skin, so if I was expecting it to provide structural support, I probably needed to layer it on a few times. I did some tests on scraps of foam and found that white glue and podge yielded fairly similar results, so I used the cheaper glue for my tests, laying on three successive coats (letting each one dry before applying the next one).<\/em><\/p>\n The second workable suggestion was to apply a candy coat of gloss varnish. The idea was the same as with the glue\/podge, except that it would be much faster to apply (and… might<\/em> be stronger? I don’t really know the physical dynamics of gloss varnish shells).<\/p>\n I did four tests– gloss over paint, gloss under paint, glue over paint, and glue under paint. The results weren’t terribly encouraging, but the glue-over-paint test did have the… if not “best”, then “least bad” result. I could still make chips with a sharp knock, but it was a fair bit more resilient than before. I figured I could just be incredibly gentle with it, and that might be enough.<\/p>\n Crossing my fingers and praying to Space Jesus<\/a>, I applied two coats of thinned white glue over everything, then optimistically proceeded to further paint layers.<\/p>\n (By the way– if it sounds like all of this was a quick experimental process, that’s only because I’m skipping most of the details. In reality, the time span between the first discovery of the paint chips and the application of the sprayed glue was two and a half of the most depressing and discouraging weeks of my terraining career, and I was an annoyingly mopey Potato to be around throughout. ;_; )<\/em><\/p>\n Deciding that it was as safe as it was going to get to move forward, I started applying additonal paint coats to the stone. First I did a hard under-spray of very dark (almost black)<\/em> red.<\/p>\n I then did a very light dusting of vivid red from the top to establish a highlight.<\/p>\n At this point I loved the colours I had applied, but I wanted to blend the stone one step higher into orange, and everything was far too smooth– I needed to sponge on some texture.<\/p>\n Back in the day, you used to be able to get awesome organic sponges from paint stores, but after visiting half a dozen of them and speaking to a few salespeople, I’ve learned that sponge texture has gone out of style, and stores no longer stock them. I tried to explain that sponge texture never goes out of style in the terrain community, but my compelling argument did not seem to sway them.<\/p>\n Lacking this, I looked around various stores for some sort of substitute, and ended up finding a squeezable sponge mop that seemed like it would do the job. It took quite a bit of work with heavy pliers, but I was able to pull the metal bracket apart and free the trapped sponge within.<\/p>\n To getting a convincing stone texture, you don’t want to use the flat exterior of the sponge– you want to tear it with your hands to create an uneven surface from the interior.<\/p>\n Sponging is pretty straightforward– pick up paint, wipe most of it off, then dab a few times. I… may have dabbed a bit hard on these ones. ~_~<\/p>\n Once the white paint had dried, I took out my airbrush and sprayed a thin coat of orangey yellow from the top. I didn’t bother covering the sides at all, as the next stage would address them.<\/p>\n I then came in with a more reddish-orange spray to complete the effect. To be honest, this wasn’t exactly what I was trying to accomplish, but I may have accidentally created something even better than my original vision. SO PRETTY. <3<\/p>\n I was pretty happy with the rocks, but still needed to paint the machinery. I picked up a roll of special masking tape at my local dollar store– it’s a roll of normal beige masking tape, but with 6″ of brown paper attached down one side. This seemed like it would be very helpful in masking off the red stone without the need to stick tape all over the entire surface.<\/p>\n Thanks to the relatively straight edges of the machinery, it was pretty easy to get everything masked off. The brown paper was large enough to wrap most of the way around each piece.<\/p>\n Once they were all masked, it was time for paint!<\/p>\n I wanted my machinery to be off-white to match the Plastcraft terrain, so I sprayed everything with an appropriate shade of… I dunno, eggshell?<\/p>\n Also: it was late.<\/p>\n Once the spraypaint dried, I went in and added dark red shading from underneath with my airbrush.<\/p>\n This was followed by what I must admit were some fairly messy layers of off-white and pure white from the top.<\/p>\n I then pulled off the tape, and it–<\/p>\n <\/p>\n ALRIGHT.<\/p>\n FINE.<\/p>\n I DIDN’T WANT TO DO THIS.<\/p>\n BUT I GUESS I DON’T HAVE ANY CHOICE.<\/p>\n I’M GOING TO HAVE TO ASK MARK ZUCKERBURG FOR HELP. >:(<\/p>\n I made a post in the WGC Terrain Builders group on Facebook, and bared my pain to the world. The first few replies seemed to miss the P.S. about not wanting to strip back down to the bare foam, but their suggestions are valid for future projects.<\/p>\n However, eventually, an angel descended from Terrain Heaven, and spoke two primordial words of power.<\/p>\n I didn’t know exactly what that was, but a quick Google search told me that my divine quest should take me to the hardware store.<\/p>\n Turns out, it’s… floor sealant? I think?<\/p>\n It’s… I don’t know. It’s a paintcan full of translucent white liquid.<\/p>\n Smells pretty nice.<\/p>\n It goes on quite thin. It dries clear in about an hour, and is ready for a second coat after 2 hours.<\/p>\n I was a bit worried early on by this crackle texture that appeared when it dried; however, this only showed up after the first coat, and disappeared following subsequent coats.<\/p>\n I wasn’t sure how many coats would be needed to hold my suicidal paint together, so I did an experiment– I divided my test rock into four strips, and applied zero, one, two, and three coats (respectively)<\/em> on each strip.<\/p>\n Then, I got out my tool box and performed some percussive investigation. >:)<\/p>\n\n
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